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Sample Crash the Super Bowl release form

Just 6 days until the deadline, BTW

Here’s a nightmare scenario for you:  Imagine that you’ve spent hundreds of dollars and countless hours writing, shooting and editing the ultimate Doritos commercial.  Then after weeks of waiting and hoping you get the big call; you’re a finalist in the Crash the Super Bowl contest!  You’re going to receive $25,000 and a free trip to the Super Bowl!  But before the win is official, you have to get a big stack of paperwork taken care of.  You have to fill out tax forms and transfer your copyrights and of course, you need to get all of your actors to sign Fritolay’s official release forms.  But when you go to your actors and tell them the good news, they aren’t excited that the ad they were in might play on TV.   They just want to know how much of your prize money they’re going to be getting.  Suddenly the stranger you hired off of craigslist to say one line in your CTSB entry has your entire future in the palm of his hand.  If he doesn’t sign the releases, you don’t get to be a finalist.  Of course, there’s no way he won’t sign….but that signature is going to cost you.

That type of scenario is exactly why you need to get your actors and your crew members to sign agreements with you before you submit an entry to a big video contest.  Of course, the sponsor’s official releases will trump any release forms you concoct on your own.  But your goal should be to get your cast and crew to commit to a few key terms before you shoot.  So really, you should put the term “release form” out of your head.  Instead, what you need is a “Actor/Producer Agreement.”  (Or a Crew Member/Producer Agreement.)  This type of agreement is signed by both you and your actor.  It’s like a mini-contract that lays out what both of you are going to do.  Here are three crucial points the agreement needs to include:

  1. The actor must agree to sign all future releases and paperwork related to the project:
  2. You are the owner of the entry and all the audio and video created during the shoot.
  3. How much compensation an actor or crew member will receive if you win any prizes.

I’m shooting a Crash the Super Bowl entry of my own this week and in my actor/producer agreements, the actors will each be getting 5% of any “Cash Prizes” I might win.  It’s very important that you include a stipulation like that in your agreements because Fritolay gives the Crash the Super Bowl finalists a bunch of non-cash prizes.  But you can’t split a ticket to the Super Bowl so be careful about how you phrase things.  Also, 5% might not seem like a lot but it’s a pretty good payday for someone who only spent one afternoon working on your entry.  And 5% per crew member and actor can add up fast!  If anyone balks at the number, just be sure to mention that the top prize in this contest is a million bucks.  5% of a million dollars is 50 grand.  So like I said, 5% is pretty fair.

Unfortunately, Doritos doesn’t provide any release forms that you could have your actors sign before the shoot.  So you’re going to have to create your own actor/producer agreement.  Or you could just use the one that I use!  Below is a SAMPLE Crash the Super Bowl Actor/Producer agreement that I may or may not have created.  I don’t want to say who wrote this thing since it seems to contain bits and pieces of other agreements that are floating around the web.  Also, for legal purposes I have to advice you not to just use some bogus-ass agreement that you found on  the Internet!  If you really want to be protected you need to hire a lawyer to draw up a legit agreement for you.

So now that I think about it, let’s say that this particular agreement is for “Novelty Purposes Only.”  It’s just a funny sample for a non-existent Crash the Super Bowl entry named “Doritos: They’re Toasted!”  Like I said, you shouldn’t use this form but if you were going to you’d have to do a replace the fake producer’s name with your own.  Same goes for the title of the ad.  (Find and Replace in Word would do the trick.)  But again, don’t use this form and if you do, come crying to me if it winds up biting you in the ass.

Click here to download the DOC file:  CTSB-sample-agreement

Remember agreements like this one are signed by both the producer and the actor and each person gets a copy.  That way no one can argue that they didn’t have time to study the document carefully.  If anyone has any questions, concerns or feedback about the agreement, e-mail Dan at VideoContestNews.com.

 

How to get unlimited, real youtube views

Youtube: Where all your viral dreams come true

Every once and a while I will come across a “viral” video contest where the winner is determined by youtube views.  And when I do see a contest like that, it takes a lot of will power for me NOT to enter.  You see, in my time running this website I have learned a lot of shady tricks; and “how to get to get tons of fake youtube views” is one of those tricks.  Basically if you go to the right website you can order all the views you want.  But those “views” are just fake, junk views.  They’re just generated by some guy in India using a computer that is constantly changing its IP address. (or something like that)  They don’t come from real people.  So in most “viral” contests, buying fake views would be considered cheating.  If you buy fake views, there is a good chance you’ll get caught because fake views leave evidence behind.  And not only could you get disqualified from the contest you’re in, you could be kicked off of youtube for violating the site’s Terms of Service.

So like I said, I try not to enter “viral” video contests.  But about two months ago I came across a contest that was being run by a new micro-jobs website that I just had to enter.  The competition was being run in two stages.  In the first stage, people were supposed to create funny videos about giraffes (The website’s mascot is a giraffe) and then try to get as many youtube views as they could in four weeks.  The people who created the Top 5, most viewed submissions got to go on to round two where they would compete for $15,000.  I decided to enter but I promised myself I would NOT buy fake youtube views.  (here’s my submission)  I figured that with the resources I have at my disposal I could get into the Top 5, fair and square.  This website just keeps getting more and more traffic so I stuck a banner ad for my own video at the top of this page.  And man, did that get me a lot of views!  Plus, I have a kind of popular youtube channel with a few thousand subscribers.  So I was able to get a good chunk of views from there too.

But inevitably, as the view count deadline approached, the cheating began.  Several other contestants started buying fake views and I was pushed out of the Top 5.  I contacted the contest organizers and I explained how you could tell when someone’s view count was phony.  But they said they really couldn’t do anything about it because the practice wasn’t actually against the rules.  (So technically, it wasn’t even cheating!)  So basically I recived the OK from the contest organizers to do whatever I could to get in the Top 5.  But I still didn’t want to take the easy way out.  So I started looking for a legitimate solution to my problem.

And I found that solution in like five minutes.  It turns out that any youtube user can now sign up for the site’s “Promoted Videos” program.  Basically you can now buy views from youtube!  Except unlike the other views you can buy, these are REAL views that come from REAL people.  If you use youtube’s promotions program to get 10,000 views, it means that 10,000 different people actually watched your video.  So while some might consider this bending the rules of a viral video contest, no one could claim that you’re breaking the rules since your views are coming from real people and since you’re not violating youtube’s terms of service.

Here’s how the program works:  After you sign up, you pick which video you want to promote.  Then you tell youtube how much you are willing to pay per view.  I think I went with 12 cents but you can go even lower.  And remember, that is the most you are willing to pay per view.  You then get to select the keywords you want associated with your video.  So if your video has a giraffe in it (like mine did) you can select “giraffe” as a keyword.  Then when someone searches for giraffe videos on youtube, your video will appear in the “Promoted Videos” sidebar.  The more specialized a keyword is, the more you will pay per-click.  Here’s a a screengrab of my Promoted Videos Dashboard that shows the keywords I used for my giraffe video:

Note: I cut out the irrelevant parts of this chart in photoshop

So even though I “bid” 12 cents per view, most of my views only cost me 2 or 3 cents.  And as you can see, the keyword “funny” was the most popular keyword by a long shot.

After you set your keywords, you tell youtube how much you want to spend every day promoting your videos.  If you say “$5,00″ youtube will run your video as an ad all day until you have spent $5.00.  I think the best thing about this program is how fast the process is.  If you want a huge number of views right away, you can tell youtube you want to spend $200 a day.  Youtube will pimp your video like crazy and by end of the day, you’ll have thousands of real views.  Here’s what your “dashboard” will look like once your “campaign” is up and running:

Again, this was photo-shopped to save space

The final view count for my giraffe entry was about 16,000.  And that was enough to get me into the finals.  As you can see, I recived 10,659 views thanks to youtube’s promoted video program.  And that means I was able to get 6,000 views on my own.  And that’s pretty damn good!  If the other contestants hadn’t bought fake views, I would have been able to get in the Top 5 without any help from youtube.

So youtube’s Promoted Videos program is pretty much just a giant, view-creating machine.  However many views you want, you can get.  And you only get charged when someone actually clicks on your video.  But there is one major drawback to this program; this s&%# ain’t cheap.  I spent about $300 to get those 10,000 views.  So was it a wise purchase?  Well, the results of the contest I was will be officially announced on November 1st so check back here on Monday to see how I did.  Ok, spoiler alert:  I didn’t win the grand prize but I did win some cash.  But don’t tell anyone I told you that.

 

Putting together a cheap-o Halloween make-up kit

Back in grade school and high school I was one of those kids who’s “thing” was “making movies.”  My friends and I always had some kind of video project in the works but of course we did most of our filming in the summer.  And like most 14 year old screenwriters, we were mainly interested in stuff like monsters, zombies, aliens, serial killers and drunken clowns. (ok, maybe that last one was just me.)  We were shooting our mini-epics long before google or amazon so if we ran out of clown makeup or fake blood in July, we were pretty much screwed.  So every year I really looked forward to the week after Halloween since all the stores would sell their make-up, costumes and props for 50, 60 or even 90% off.  Come November first I would stock up on a year’s supply of stuff like this:

So realistic!

Unfortunately, the days of the “post-halloween” sale are pretty much gone.  In fact, I’ve noticed that some big stores start pulling their Halloween stuff off the shelves BEFORE October 31st!  The reason is that the Christmas season now officially begins on November 1st.  So the masks and costumes need to disappear fast to make room for all the fake trees.

That sucks for several reasons but the good news is that a lot of stores now start reducing the prices on their Halloween merchandise before Halloween. I almost never use effects make-up in my video contest entries so I haven’t stocked up on cheap Halloween make up in many years.  But recently I was in JoAnn Fabrics buying some hot glue sticks or something when I saw a small plastic box with different sized slots in it.

Click the image to order one of these things

It was called an “Art Bin” but for some reason, when I saw it I immediately thought “this would be perfect for storing tubes of Halloween make up!”  It turns out that for the last 15 years or so, I had been subconsciously waiting for a solution to a problem I had when I was a kid.  You see, I always stored my Halloween makeup in a ziplock bag.  And I can still vividly remember how gross that bag got.  I’d open a thing of white makeup, use it and then toss it back in the bag.  So in no time the inside of the bag would be covered in cheap, greasy makeup.

So even though I have almost zero use for effects makeup, I had to buy that box and fill it with $1.00 tubes of fake blood, green and blue makeup and black nail polish.  When it comes to stuff like this, it’s better to have it and not need it rather than need it and not have it.  And actually, there are a lot of things you can do with the kind of cheap Halloween makeup you can buy at target or walmart.  For example, you could do what a lot of filmmakers have done and shoot your own Twilight or Zombie-themed contest entry!  And a little purple and brown makeup can make a pretty realistic bruise or black eye.  Oh you know what else is good to have on hand? A can of white hair spray.  It’s great for giving scientist or politician characters a little extra pizazz.  However you probably want to avoid featuring realistic blood, gore or injuries in MOST of your video contest entries.  I say “most” of your entries because every so often, I’ll see a video contest that kind of has a hardcore edge to it.  So if a contest is kind of edgy, you could push the envelope a bit and include a little violence just for the shock value.

If you actually try and put together a low-budget, effects makeup kit of your own, there are a few other items you should include.  If you see spirit gum and spirit gum remover in the Halloween isle, grab some.  That stuff can come in really handy.  And while your at it you might as well buy a few fake mustaches.  Why?  Because fake mustaches are freaking funny, that’s why.  To finish off your kit you’ll want to add some Q-tips, makeup sponges, and wet naps.  And or of course, you can’t forget the toothpicks!  Toothpicks are how the pros scratch themselves so that their makeup won’t smear.  But I bet you already knew that.

If you’re like me, once your $7 makeup kit is complete, you’ll look at it, feel proud for about five seconds and then you’ll shove the box into the back of your closet.  I doubt I’ll actually use any of the stuff in my kit but next summer if I find myself inspired to shoot a video contest entry about a mime or a vampire or a sports fan with a painted face, I’ll be good to go.

 

LED Panels: My new favorite lights!

Hello, beautiful.

For years I have been lighting my video contest entries with a pair of giant, 1,000 watt halogen lights with enormous “soft boxes” attached to them.  But frankly, those lights suck.  The bulbs get so hot that the lights have fans inside of them!  The fans are so loud that I’m always worried the mic will pick up the whirring sound they make.  And anyone who has ever put together a soft box can tell you, they’re a pain to set up and move.  Worst of all though, 1,000 watt bulbs aren’t easy to find.  The ones I used cost about 16 bucks each and I used to break them all the time.  Since you can’t just pick these bulbs up at your local home depot, I had to order them special online.  But recently, the company that sold me my light kit stopped carrying the bulbs!  They sold me their last two and said they don’t even know where I could find more of them.

So I took that as a sign that it was time to get some decent lights.  I did some research and decided to spend a little cash and buy my first LED panel.  And let me tell you something…these things are pretty sweet.  In fact, I used my new LED light on one shoot and the very next day I ordered a second one.  Here’s why these things are so amazing:

1.  The panels put out the equivalent of 500 watts of light but only use 50 watts of energy.  So you’re probably not going to be tripping any breakers with these.

2.  The light is so simple you could set it up in seconds.

3.  The LED panel is so small you could stick it in a back pack.

4.  The light emits pure white.

5.  The LED bulbs stay cool to the touch.

6.  There are separate switches on the back for different sections of the panel.  So basically, it comes with a “dimmer.”

7.  They’re so small you can fit one in a back pack.

8.  The look pretty cool.

And yes, “looking cool” is an important feature.  When you’re working on a low-budget video project, I think a professional atmosphere is good for the moral of the cast and crew.  So I really like these lights.  But they do have a few problems:

1.  They’re not cheap.  These lights cost me $179 each.  You can order them here, BTW.

2.  The light they emit is incredibly STARK.  They have zero warmth to them.  You’ll need to carefully white balance and color correct your footage so it doesn’t look like you shot it in a prison.

3.  The lights I ordered didn’t come with stands.  You’ll need to order them separately.  This one works fine.

4.  Even on the lowest setting, the lights give off strong shadows.  You’ll need to diffuse the light somehow.

To be honest, at first these lights were kind of frustrating  Sometimes they would work great and sometimes the looked like crap.  It took me a little trial and error but I think I’ve finally gotten the hang of them.  I’ll throw one more numbered list at you.  Here are some tips for getting better footage out of your LED panels.

1.  Buy two of them.  Trust me, they work better in pairs.

2.  Set them up far from the subject.  The farther away the lights are, the better.  If you put them to close it will look like you’re shooting a horror movie.

3.  Use white umbrellas to diffuse the light.  Wax paper or Parchment paper should help too.

4.  Crank the lights up as bright as they go and then bounce the light off a ceiling or wall.

5.  Use them with natural sunlight!

I’ve found that these LED panels work great when you have some natural sunlight in your scene.  If an open window is your main light source, you can use the light to fill in the shadows.  Seriously, it works like a charm since the sun and the LEDs are the same “color temperature.”  Here’s an example of what I’m talking about.  Below is my entry for Home Run Inn Pizza’s Halloween video contest.  People were supposed to create scary stories that involved HRI Pizza.  I lit this whole scene with 2 LED panels and the sun.  And I mean every shot in this video was lit with the LED lights; even the wide shot of the exterior of the house:

Click the image to watch...if you dare.

To a causal viewer, the lighting in this video would probably seem totally natural.  But trust me, without the LED panels it would have looked like garbage.  Take the shot of the ghost for example.  You can see that the sunlight is coming from behind him.  So without an LED light shining right on him, his front would have been totally dark.  But I didn’t need to bathe the guy in artificial light.  I only had the LED panel on at about 30%.  And check out the shot of the skeleton in the kitchen.  Most of the light in that scene was coming from the kitchen window.  But the LED was able to fill in the shadows that the sun created.

Ok, sure…I know that there are a lot of lights that could yield similar results.  I could have stuck a 300 Watt bulb in a paper “china ball” lantern and the effect would be about the same.  But the LED panels are a lot more precise and you can “sculpt” the light since the panels have barn doors on them.  Plus, a gigantic China Ball can’t fit in tight spaces like the LED panel can.  So if you have a few hundred bucks burning a hole in your pocket, I suggest ordering an LED panel and trying it out.  After you get the hang of it you’ll want to stick it in a bag and bring it to every shoot you do.

Oh by the way…did you see what I did there when I used my Home Run Inn pizza video as an example?  It was my crass attempt to get a few votes for my entry.  Voting in that contest runs until the 27th and to vote, all you have to do is log in to facebook and click the vote button.  So please do vote if you have 15 seconds to spare.  If I get in the top 15, I’ll win free pizza for a year!  Also, be sure to watch the video.  Views don’t matter, I just think it’s pretty funny.

 

How to hire actors for your video contest entries

Believe it or not, I actually spent a year studying filmmaking in a somewhat-prestigious MFA film program. It was a huge waste of time and money and I left after the first year.  But I did lean a few valuable life lessons while I was at that school.  There were only 13 of us first-year grad students and one afternoon, we all took a walk from the Film Building over to the Theater Building.  The purpose of the field trip was to meet undergraduate acting students.  It turned out that for the undergrads, working on a grad student’s film was quite an accomplishment.

The students we met basically threw themselves at us.  They performed scenes and did improvs and took any request we could come up with.  Some of my classmates seemed to really enjoy the power and started asking the students to do more and more ridiculous things.  After a while the whole exercise really started to feel inappropriate.  As we were leaving, a beautiful young student came up to me, clawed my chest and enthusiastically proclaimed “use us….please use us…make us your whores….we will do anything you want!”  She was being dramatic but I will never forget the look in her eyes.  She meant what she was saying.  Of course, she didn’t mean it literally.  It wasn’t a sexual offer; it was an emotional one.

It was that moment I realized how much power directors have over actors.  Aspiring actors are some of the most hardcore and dedicated people you’re ever going to meet.  And an unscrupulous or uncaring director could really take advantage of a actor’s enthusiasm.

So when you start looking for actors and actresses for your video contest entries, you have to act like a professional and treat these people with respect.  As the director, you have something that they want.  There are thousands of hopeful actors in your city compared to only a few dozen directors who happen to be casting at the moment.  That means that as a filmmaker, you have a lot of power.  As I learned on that trip to the Theater Building back in grad school, even good people can let a little power go to their heads.  So the very first thing you need to do when casting for a video project is to tell yourself you’re not going to take advantage of the people who want to work with you.

And the next thing you need to do is get your ass over to Craigslist.

Like most video contest filmmakers, I used to recruit my family and friends to appear in my contest entries.  But it’s uncool to constantly ask people you know to act for you.  So now I get almost all of my actors from Craigslist.  (The irony is that every once in a while, a friend will ask me “How come you never ask me to be in your videos any more? I want to act again!”)  Hiring actors on craigslist is like shooting fish in a barrel.  And that’s why I prefaced this post with that little story about treating aspiring actors with respect.  Just because it’s easy to find actors and actresses  on Craigslist it doesn’t mean you should treat them like they’re disposable people that are lucky to be working with someone as brilliant as you.

If you’ve never used Craigslist to find actors before, you’ll first have to make a free Craigslist account.  (It’s also free to post a call for actors).  Once you have an account, head to the Gigs section and click on “Talent.”  The rest of the process is pretty self-explanatory.

But how do you write a post that will get the attention of decent actors?  The answer is simple; money.  Offer money and you will hear from dozens and dozens of people.  And you don’t have to offer a lot of money.  $50 or even $100 lets people know that you’re serious and that you know what you’re doing.  Yeah sure, there are a lot of actors out there that are so desperate to get footage for their reel that that they are willing to work for “copy and credit.”  But personally, I don’t think it’s right to ask actors to work for free on a project that could potentially win you thousands of dollars.  Plus, money ensures that the actors you select (probably) won’t flake out on you an not show up.

So what exactly should your post say?  Well, honesty is the best policy.  If you expect the shoot to take 4 hours, say that it will at least 4 hours.  If you only want actors of a certain type, mention that too otherwise a lot of people you can’t use will be e-mailing you.  Keep the whole thing short and upbeat.  If you’re shooting a video contest entry, be sure to say that.  But if you’re shooting an ad for a contest being run by Poptent, Mofilm, Tongal or Zooppa you should say that you’re “Shooting a commercial on Spec.”  And you should also mention that if the sponsor likes the ad, they will purchase it and use it.  That angle always works well for me since all actors would love to be in a “real” ad for a major company.  However, I always refrain from mentioning the sponsor’s name in the post.  You don’t want anyone to get the impression that you’re actually affiliated with the sponsor.  So if I’m shooting a Dell video for a Poptent assignment, I’ll say I’m “shooting an online ad on spec for a well-known computer company.”

Once your ad is up you’re inbox will soon be flooded with replies.  And you’ll quickly be faced with another dilemma.  Should you respond to the people you are sure you do not want to cast?  Personally, I don’t respond.  I just archive their e-mail.  Responding to each person who writes to you would take forever and most actors will understand that.  Besides, who wants to get an e-mail saying “thanks but no thanks?”

After weeding out the actors you know you can’t use, you’ll be left with a handful of potential cast members.  At this point, some directors would schedule in-person auditions.  But not me.  Why?  Because $50 or $100 is not enough money for a director to be too picky.  If you’re shooting a video for a client you should absolutely do auditions.  But making people schlep across town just so you can audition them for a video that probably will never be purchased just isn’t fair to the actors.  For sure, a lot of actors will audition for you if you ask them to…which is why you shouldn’t ask them.  If you’re shooting a big, expensive Crash the Super Bowl entry then sure, hold auditions.  That’s a different story.  But if you’re just shooting a little video for for some contest where the prize is $2.500you’re wasting people if you make them audition.  Instead, I recommend doing an over the phone audition. Either that or just cast people that have decent demo reels.

When you’re on the set, your goal should be to waste as little of your actors’ time as possible.  Don’t tell them to show up at the same time as the crew!  There is no reason they need to sit around for three hours while your lighting guys set up.  On a low budget shoot, an actor’s “Call Time” should be about 30 minutes before they will be needed on set.  If you keep things moving, your actors will be happy.  Back in grad school, one thing the teachers drilled into our heads was the idea that the producer must ALWAYS provide meals for the cast and crew.  That’s B.S.  I always provide pop, water and snacks but a meal is overkill.  If your shoot goes longer than 6 hours, you should probably spring for lunch.  But I’ve found that food just slows things down and many actors and actresses don’t want to sit down and eat.  They’d rather just do their part, get their cash and be on their way.

There’s one last thing that you need to decide before you cast actors for your video contest entries.  Should you give them a cut of the prize money if you win?  Sometimes I offer a cut to actors that I have worked with more than once.  (If I cast the same actor twice it means I really, really like them).  But usually I do not give my actors a cut if my video wins something.  Why?  Well, because they already got paid.  As the filmmaker, you are the one taking all the risk and so it’s appropriate that you garner all the reward.

 

Low Budget Lighting Part Two: Basic Electrical Safety

Beardy’s note:  It’s Friday which means today we’re running Part 2 of Cinematographer Jeremy Applebaum’s excellent Three Part Guest Post about the basics of Low Budget lighting.  And today’s installment is extremely helpful.  If you’ve ever tripped a breaker during a big shoot, now you’ll know why.  In case you missed it, here’s Part 1 of the Low Budget Lighting guide.  And now, on to Part 2:

Part One: Calculating Amps:

Remember, a "Stinger' is an extension cord on a film set.

In the first installment we went over the tools and gear you can pick up in order to build yourself a DIY, low budget light kit.  This time we will go over some basic electrical safety.  Before plugging anything in it is good practice to know where the fuse box is.  And if  it’s an older fuse box you’ll need some replacement fuses in case you trip a fuse.  Even if you closely monitor your power draw, you never know when a refrigerator, furnace, tv, etc will kick on and blow the fuse.  Any standard wall socket socket (circuit) can handle anywhere from 15 – 20 amps.  In order to make sure you donʼt blow a fuse (or trip a breaker) you should always keep track of how many amps you’re plugging into the socket.
 

The formula for calculating amps is:  Amps = Watts / Volts.

 
In America we use 120 volts.  However, when calculating amps for my own shoots, I divide by 100, not 120 for a few reasons.  One, itʼs faster: Itʼs a lot easier to and quicker to divide 500/100 (5) as opposed to 500/120 (4.16).  Two, it keeps my amperage on the circuit down, further reducing my chances of blowing a fuse.  While itʼs important to know that the formula for 100% accuracy, you can almost never go wrong with diving by 100 instead of 120.

Part Two Stinger Safety:

Something to keep in mind when handling power distribution for your scene is that stingers have gauges, which tell the amperage they can handle.  Most off the self stingers will have gauges ranging from 12 – 16.  But the longer the stinger, the less amps they can safety hold.  Below you will find a chart explaining the differences (for America).  If you are not careful your stinger can melt, causing a potential electrical fire.
 

Beardy's note: I went to college with a guy named Max Amps. True story.

As you can see it can get quite complicated if you’re running long stingers.  You can never go wrong buying a higher gauge cord. In fact, unless you are really strapped for cash, you should never buy anything less than a 14 gauge stinger for film work.  The same principle applies to surge protectors and to an extent, multi taps.

And now, some Bonus Questions!  Answers to be posted at the start of next week’s article:

It should be noted that for the purpose of these questions volts are assumed to be at 120.  It is perfectly fine (and recommended) to try solving these problems with volts at 120 and 100 (answers will be given for both). Stinger gauge/max amperage for the distance should be taken from the table above.

1: How many amps does a 500 watt work light draw?

2: If you have 4 500 watt work lights and one 100 foot 16 gauge extension cord, how many work lights can you safely power?

3: If you nearest 20 amp socket (circuit) is 50 feet away, you have a 50 foot 12 gauge stinger, and you need to power 20 amps of light could you safely power your lights?

4: If you have two 15 amp sockets (circuits), one 1,000 watt work light, two 500 watt work lights, two clamp lights with 100 watt lamps in them and two stingers, each 12 gauge 25 footers with attached multi taps could you power all your lights if the closest socket (circuits) is 45 feet away? If not how many more amps would you need?

Feel free to post your answers you may have below.  Same goes for any questions you may have.  Stay tuned for part three where we will go over a basic low budget lighting set up.
 

—     Guest Post by Jeremy Applebaum. Check out Jeremey’s “Virtual AD” app here    —


Low Budget Lighting Part One: The Fundamentals

Beardy’s Note:  Today I’m happy to present our third-ever guest blog post.  And it’s actually the first installment in a three part series about lighting low budget video projects!  The series is being written by video contest filmmaker and cinematographer, Jeremy Applebaum.  I’ve worked with Jeremy on a few shoots and the guy certainly knows his stuff.  Last year he handled the lighting for my Crash the Super Bowl entry and I was really impressed with the work he did.  The video was shot outdoors at night next to a campfire so it was an incredibly difficult scene to light.  But check out the final product!  Like I said, the guy knows his stuff.  Oh, and Jeremy also just released his own iPhone app for filmmakers!  Ok, on with the post…

Lighting on a small budget can be a real challenge. But a nice, professional look doesn’t have to cost you a fortune. In fact, most of what you need can be picked up cheap at your local hardware store. In this installment of the lighting guide, we’ll present some items that every low budget filmmaker should have at their disposal.

Section One: Background Information:

Before we go into the gear, some basic lighting terminology knowledge is needed:

1:  A Key Light, the strongest source in your scene.

2:  A fill light, a light not as powerful as the key but used to fill in the darker spots.

3:  A back or accent light, a light pointed at the back of your subject to make them pop.

4:  A background light, a light pointed at the background so it doesnʼt turn into black mush.

A typical set will have one key light, a few fill lights, several accent lights, and one to two background lights.  All these different lighting sources can purchased inexpensively and off the self at various retailers.

Section Two: Lighting Fixtures:

Disclaimer: It needs to be said that all of this lights can get very hot, so please be careful and use caution when moving and touching these lights.

work it.

The most common low budget (hardware store) light in use would be the work light. At anywhere from $4.99 (and up) for 500 (and up) watts of these are quite a steal. Even more so when you consider that Lowel Tota lamps (bulbs in film are called lamps) can be used instead of the lamp that comes with it.  Work lights are great for lighting a broad area and can be used for anything from key lights, fill lights/accent, and background lights. The main disadvantage of these lights are that they are very difficult to control and unless softened somehow they emit a very harsh quality of light.

Another common low budget light you will see in use would be the paper lantern. These are great as soft fill lights. At around $25 for the whole fixture (lantern, socket, and lamp) these, while a bit pricier than the work light, are still a great deal.  Paper lanterns are great for providing a great soft fill light to your scene. The main disadvantage here is that the only thing they will do is provide soft light and can not be easily controlled or shaped. They also have a huge safety issue, while unlikely, since they are made of paper, if the bulb is too close or touching the sides, the lantern could light on fire.

The Clamps!

The last lighting fixture on this list is an absolute gem and largely unknown to the low budget, DIY type crowd, and this would be the clamp light. While you can get by with one to two work lights, and a china ball, you will need several more clamp lights if you really want to get serious about lighting your scene. At $7.99 (and up, without a lamp) these can get quite pricey. Clamp lights are great because, like the name suggests, they can be clamped almost anywhere making them great for for fill, accent, backlights, and in a pinch, enough of them can provide enough punch to provide a solid key light. A safety issue that should be said is that just because they can be clamped anywhere doesn’t mean they should, always make sure your lights are secure before walking away from them. When in doubt donʼt leave it.

Section Three: Accessories and Lighting Control:

Below are several great options out there for shaping and controlling your lighting sources.

Another clamp!

C Clamps:  C clamps are great for rigging pieces of gear in spots that you couldnʼt get them normally.

Foam Board:  White foam board can used to bounce light onto your subjects (experiment by pointing your work lights at something and then try again, this time pointing your work light at some white foam board and bouncing it back to truly see the effect). Black foam board can be used block (or called flagging) parts of light that you donʼt want hitting your subject.

Clothes Pins:  Clothes pins (c-47s) are great for clipping parchment paper to your lights.

Gloves:  Gloves (or pot holders!) are needed to handle and move your lights during a shoot.

Tin Foil:  Tin foil makes a great shiny reflector. The main difference between tin foil and white foam board is that tin foil will bounce back a more powerful and harsher light. To make a cheap all-in-one bounce board, tape or glue some tin foil to one side on your white foam board.

More clamps? WTF?

Pony Clamps:  Pony clamps are used like clamps for rigging gear, except where c clamps excel at clamping lights, pony clamps are better for clamping foam board and helping secure clamp lights.

Parchment Paper:  Parchment paper makes a great diffuser, clip in front of a work light or clamp light to soften it. Be careful not to clip it too close so it doesnʼt get too hot and start burning up.

Tape:  Masking tape and duct tape are a requirement to have on hand on any set.

Case:  You will also need some sort of case to carry all your gear in. I personally use work totes but almost anything should work. Just be careful how you pack your lamps. You donʼt want to open your case to find smashed lamps and broken glass.

Power:  No lighting kit would be complete without its share of power distribution options. Since most low budget options generally tend to have short cords it would be a good idea to always have a few extension cords (called stingers on a film set) and surge protecters/multi taps on hand to split the power. Furthermore dimmers are great for controlling your fixtures output.

Lamps:  You will need a few different lamps to put in your clamp lights and paper lanterns (work lights come with one to two in the box). It would be good to have several lamps on hand of different color temperatures and wattages.  Make sure you always bring a spare to set you with, you never know when a lamp is going to blow.

Next friday we’ll cover basic electrical safety in Part Two and then in Part Three were we go over some basic lighting techniques.  If you liked this article, have any questions, or think I missed anything please speak up below.
 

—     Guest Post by Jeremy Applebaum. Check out Jeremey’s “Virtual AD” app here    —

 

Tips for using GetOnlineVotes.com

Banner for getonlinevotes.com

I know that a lot of video contest filmmakers hate it when contests let online voting help determine the winners.  So do I.  I can’t even imagine how many contests I would have won if quality was the only thing that mattered to the judges.  But contest organizers LOVE online voting.  Every time a contestant asks for votes on facebook or twitter or on their blog, that’s free advertising for the sponsor.  And you can’t really blame contest organizers for wanting to get as much exposure for their company as possible.  After all, if it wasn’t for the publicity, most companies wouldn’t even bother running a contest in the first place.  So if you want to make money in video contests, you have just got to accept the fact that getting votes is just part of the game.  And once you do, you can start developing strategies to win vote-based competitions.

If you’re really serious about winning a contest, you’ll need to try and get votes from people outside of your social circle.   How do you do that?  Well I suggest you try the site GetOnlineVotes.com.  GOV is what contest junkies refer to as a “vote exchange.”  When a person needs votes in a contest they can post their link on GOV and ask for votes.  Then other people who need votes in other contests vote for that entry.  Then they post a comment that includes their own link and ask the original contestant to vote for them.  So basically, the whole thing is based on the premise, “you vote for me and I’ll vote for you.”

And it works.  It works great, actually.  I just learned abut the site recently but I’ve tried it 2 or 3 times now.  And if you really work the website, you can get dozens or even hundreds of votes from GOV.  But I’ve noticed a lot of people who use the exchange sabotage their chances by making some simple but key mistakes.  So I thought I’d make a quick list of tips to help you get more votes on GetOnlineVotes.com.

  1. Before you post your vote request, make sure that swapping votes does not violate your contest’s rules.  Most contests don’t care where votes come from.  As long as they are getting web traffic or new sign ups or facebook fans, they’re happy.  But some contests prohibit offering “inducements” to get people to vote for an entry.  For example, I was recently in a contest sponsored by Excedrin and they had a “no inducements rule.”  Several contestants used GetOnlineVotes.com and all of them were disqualified!  So for sure, check before you post.
  2. Keep it brief.  GOV gives you the option to say something about you or the contest you’re entering before you post your voting instructions.  You are required to fill in the space so keep it as brief as possible.  One sentence is all you need.  A huge explanation just makes it look like voting for you will be complicated.
  3.  Make your instructions as easy as possible.  A wordy or confusing explanation will just scare voters away.  This seems like a no-brainer but a lot of people over-explain the voting process.  Just post the link, and present STEP 1, STEP 2, STEP 3, etc.  But be aware, if you really do have more than 2 or 3 steps, not many people are going to want to spend so much time on one vote.  The more votes people make, the more they get in return.  Just keep that in mind.
  4. Promise that you will return all votes and ask people to leave their link.  This make other users feel like a vote for you will result in a guaranteed return vote.
  5. Vote for everyone that leaves a comment on your post!  Some jerks will post their request, let people vote for them and then not return the favor.  So let people know that you are voting by replying to all comments.  If other users see that you are replying “I voted!” to every comment, they’ll know you’re good about returning votes.
  6. Work the site.  Vote for other people and leave comments asking for return votes.  But try and focus on only voting for people who will actually vote for you in return.
  7. Consider Re-Listing your Post after a few days.  GOV doesn’t allow you to post the same vote request over and over.  But for just $3.95 you can have your post put back at the top of the list of requests.

I was actually inspired to write this article because I just submitted a vote request to GetOnlineVotes.  So here’s what a nice, simple request looks like:

Click to view the actual listing

Granted, this isn’t exactly a typical GOV request because the “voting’ is done on youtube.  Most of the contests listed on the site are run through facebook.  Still, other GOV users are actually voting for my video.  All I need to do to win the $1,000 “Crowd Favorite” prize in this particular contest is get the most youtube likes.  And I think I can pull it off, fair and square.  I can get a lot of likes through youtube since I have more than 3,500 subscribers.  But GetOnlineVotes.com will probably be the thing that puts me over the top.  Of course, I’d certainly love to get some likes from you VCN readers.  So if you want to help me out, head here and give me a like.  Thanks!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nQAXJIuCS28

October 24th Update: I won the “Crowd Favorite” prize! Thanks for the votes everybody. I told you GOV works!

 
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